Sanma Magazine Issue 41: A Second Visit to Kyoto

A Familiar Sense of Rediscovery with a City This year, around the autumn equinox, I chose Kyoto, a city I had visited once before, as the destination for my family's first overseas trip. Many opt for Kyoto with family due to its historical depth, impeccable service, or perhaps a seasoned appreciation for the subtle elegance of traditional craftsmanship. I, however, found myself unexpectedly experiencing Kyoto as autumn officially began, with my parents visiting for the first time. We savored the comfortable balance of day and night, the moments when the maple leaves hadn't yet fully turned, lingering in an ambiguous state between orange and green. Following my unscripted map, we paid respectful visits to familiar temples. Before heading to a cherished cafe, we paused at an unnamed, everyday onigiri shop, joining locals in line to choose warm, handmade rice balls for breakfast. We browsed the market for dinner ingredients, later enjoying a beer and some pickles with my parents in the tatami living room of our guesthouse. There were no crowded landmarks, no tourist-trap restaurants, and no over-scheduled itineraries. Though it was my parents' first time in Kyoto, it was my ideal "Second Visit to Kyoto." With a touch of the novelty of being a tourist, not yet a seasoned connoisseur, the age of thirty to forty offers a different perspective. You can now afford to purchase an artist's ceramics, your taste has matured to suit your preferences, you can order a glass of wine you truly enjoy at a restaurant, and instead of feeling like you've already seen it all, there's a sense of comfortable familiarity. Before the millennium-old city of Kyoto, we are all still young souls. Regardless of how many times we visit, until we become true Kyoto experts, perhaps every visit still counts as a "second visit." With the spirit of "ichi-go ichi-e" (one time, one meeting), "Sanma" revisits Kyoto as its theme for the first time in seven years. Letting go of the pressure to fully comprehend Kyoto's prominent aspects, the editorial team returns to its essence. For travelers who have visited Kyoto once or a few times but not extensively, we explore a different kind of city map, venturing slightly outwards at the paces of a stroll, a bicycle ride, or a short excursion, stepping into the rhythm of local life. Another compelling reason for a second visit is the chance to reconnect with local friends. This issue collaborates with Kyoto-based cultural media "ANTENNA." Under the guidance of its director, Daiki Tsutsumi, we meet creatives who are based, have relocated to, or were born and raised in Kyoto. Within their spaces, we experience the evolving expressions of Kyoto's culture flowing into contemporary life, utilizing the nourishment left by its rich heritage to guide ancient Kyoto towards the future with new steps. Interestingly, outsiders often feel both drawn to and intimidated by Kyoto. While there are hundreds of reasons to love it, the fear often stems from not understanding the unspoken rules of "Ura Kyoto" (the hidden side of Kyoto). Curated by the ANTENNA editorial team, the "Kyoto Connoisseur Exam," featuring questions from five local Kyoto residents, reveals many "things you didn't know." It turns out that paying with cash is preferred at independent bookstores, the go-to Chinese restaurant for musicians is "Longmen Honten," and Kyoto shopkeepers are skilled at remembering customers' faces. These local insights, the "inside stories" of Kyoto, are told by the Kyoto locals themselves. The "Tokyo 99" special feature earlier this year received widespread acclaim. As the cool air of autumn arrives, let the ancient capital speak for itself with "A Second Visit to Kyoto." Whether you lean towards Tokyo or Kyoto, it's the perfect time to revisit a city and forge that "I'm back" connection.