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Xiangyunsha, a piece of intangible cultural heritage. Black Xiangyunsha involves an additional process. The base fabric is 100% mulberry silk spun silk, which is crisp and drapes well, while also possessing a sense of depth and quality. It is first repeatedly plant-dyed using Dioscorea cirrhosa root. The initial color is a positive and negative brown-tan. It is then covered with river mud, creating positive and negative AB colors. The color covered by the river mud becomes black, while the uncovered areas remain brown-tan. Washing off the river mud and drying it completes the fabric.
The entire process is done manually, requiring a dozen steps in simple terms, or dozens of steps in complexity, depending on the desired style and intensity. It also involves sun exposure during the hottest season of summer. The river mud also needs to be washed multiple times. Therefore, the quantity of Xiangyunsha per roll is not large, at most twenty meters, with ten meters being common. Because manual operation requires cutting the fabric into shorter lengths, all these dozens of steps can be completed.
It is precisely for this reason that each piece of Xiangyunsha is unique, like leaves in a vast forest; no two are alike. The traces of handcraft are evident, with an irregular, cracked pattern on the fabric surface. It feels smooth yet resilient, and exceptionally cool against the skin. Like a Zisha teapot, it requires human touch to nourish it; the more it is worn, the softer and more skin-friendly it becomes, and its luster improves. In past eras, a new Xiangyunsha garment would typically be entrusted to a "servant" to be nourished for a period, until it became translucent, lustrous, and softer, before being worn by the owner.
The entire process of sun-drying and dyeing Xiangyunsha is extremely intricate, involving: raw silk → refining → soaking in Dioscorea cirrhosa root extract → drying → repeating the soaking and drying process multiple times → boiling the silk → washing and drying in Dioscorea cirrhosa root extract multiple times → boiling the silk again → washing and drying in Dioscorea cirrhosa root extract again → boiling again → drying → applying mud → washing → drying → misting → stretching → warehousing. The entire sun-drying process requires completing "three washes, nine boils, and eighteen sun-dries," totaling dozens of steps.
Colored silk (Cai Liang) is a later innovation by contemporary artisans. Black and brown-tan have limitations in use, hence the emergence of various colored silks, including red, purple, and many other colors, as well as numerous prints. Currently, my greatest acceptance is for black. I once used a black-blue, and subsequent choices have been exclusively black. On the basis of AB double colors, a black dyeing process is applied again, creating a double-sided black effect. The two sides have different black luster; the side with river mud black has better luster and a more excellent texture, while the reverse side has a matte finish.
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This down jacket eschews the traditional sense of being old-fashioned, which is precisely why we ventured into creating down wear. We deliberately steered clear of a subtly Chinese aesthetic or the strong fusion with Xiangyunsha, opting instead for a more contemporary presentation. This, we believe, truly embodies a youthful and high-quality essence.
It is charming, with a rounded silhouette, yet it is also substantial. The loose fit offers great inclusivity. Presented through the fabric of Xiangyunsha, it has a tactile structure. Wearing it brings immense relaxation to both body and mind. The color is a subdued ebony, deep and textured, with warmth contained within, capable of withstanding the test of time. Seeing it evokes the essence of ebony, a slow, graceful arrival with an Eastern temperament.
We begin with the collar. The round neckline features three darts at the front, and the back neckline has subtle pleats, reflecting our aesthetic appreciation for femininity. The round neckline is also a key element of its charming, ageless appeal, serving as an important way to transcend age. It leaves room for pairing with hooded sweatshirts, collared shirts, or scarves. The back neckline is adorned with a piece of printed fabric, a stroke of genius that adds a touch of subtle charm to its texture, a signature technique of Yijiu. Inner charm and playfulness are qualities we always aim to maintain.
The opening features lively diagonal buttonholes that balance the subdued and steady tone. The oval black leather buttons add a rustic touch. Two buttons have small white dots, which temper the overall stability.
A garment is like a house; it's spacious and open. When a person lives in clothing, it's akin to living in a house. Clothing is a house for movement, and the beauty of life lies not just in living within it, but in decorating and transforming it into what we desire. Therefore, clothing, within its generous silhouette and H-shaped form, features detailed treatments. For instance, the pleats and the rounded silhouette lines, the printed fabric at the back neckline, the snug elastic cuffs that conform to the body, and adjustable features like the polka-dot webbing inside the waist and the drawstring made of the same fabric at the hem, all contribute to a more rounded and charming form within an otherwise straight silhouette.
The external diamond-shaped quilting lines lend it a more refined appearance. For this down jacket, we've used a knitted lining that is lightweight and elastic, offering a softer, more supple feel. Complementing this is the filling: we've used large clusters of white goose down, which are more comfortable and fluffy. The amount of down maintains a warm feel without appearing bulky. Light, soft, and warm – these are the secrets to stylish layering in autumn and winter.
Clothing reflects the person; certain aesthetic values become ingrained and, over time, can even permeate the facial features of the wearer. You will undoubtedly see your own charming self.
Notes:
Due to the special nature of the multi-layered Xiangyunsha fabric process, occasional down leakage at the quilting lines is normal.
Hand wash gently; do not machine wash. Xiangyunsha has specific washing requirements. Slight color bleeding when first washed is normal; do not soak. Rinse once in clean water. Do not use laundry detergent; a small amount of baby bath wash can be used as a substitute. Do not machine wash, rub vigorously, or wring. Do not expose to direct sunlight. Xiangyunsha fabrics have rich stylistic variations. Due to manual operation, technological uniformity cannot be achieved, resulting in variations in color depth. Cracking will be present on every piece, though the degree may vary. Small color spots may occasionally appear on the finished garment, all of which are normal phenomena. There may also be other situations not described. For those unfamiliar with Xiangyunsha, please read the description carefully.
The knitted lining should not be ironed at high temperatures or tumble-dried. This is to prevent some individuals from simplifying the process by machine washing and then tumble-drying, which is also not permissible.
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Product Description
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- This down jacket eschews the traditional sense of being old-fashioned, which is precisely why we ventured into creating down wear. We deliberately steered clear of a subtly Chinese aesthetic or the strong fusion with Xiangyunsha, opting instead for a more contemporary presentation. This, we believe, truly embodies a youthful and high-quality essence.
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